This video features the book The Motivated Amateur’s Guide to Winter Camping:
https://aaronrlinsdau.com/nonfiction/the-motivated-amateurs-guide-to-winter-camping/
Watch the video:
There’s one aspect of climbing Denali that isn’t glamorous, but everyone on the mountain has to deal with it.
The CMC.
If you’re unfamiliar, the CMC stands for Clean Mountain Can. It’s the waste container required on Denali and the primary reason the mountain hasn’t turned into an environmental disaster. With hundreds of climbers camping in extremely tight areas season after season, managing human waste is non-negotiable.
Here are a few things I’ve learned from multiple trips on the mountain, along with a perfectly circular imprint I’ve earned as proof.
Plan for More Than One Can
For teams, plan on at least one can per person, though sharing between teammates is common. As you move higher, you can cache full cans at lower camps instead of dragging everything upward. I’ve carried a full can higher than necessary before. It’s not something I recommend.
Years ago, there were multiple drop points marked with bamboo wands at lower camps. Those are mostly gone now. Today, the only official deposit location is at 14,000 camp. If you don’t plan around that, you’ll be hauling everything the entire way.
Make Sure the Lid Works Properly
This is critical. I’ve had lids that simply wouldn’t thread correctly. Trying to deal with that while exposed in freezing conditions is miserable. That happened to me on my second climb, and it’s not an experience I’d like to repeat.
Test the lid before you need it. Even though the cans are
professionally cleaned, they will smell when opened. Each one costs the Park Service around $40 to clean, which helps explain permit costs.
Inspect the Strap System
Some cans come with incomplete strap setups. I’ve dealt with missing or partial rigging, and it makes attaching the can to a pack or sled unnecessarily difficult.
Check everything in advance. You want the clip straps, hanger straps, and full rigging intact. Don’t assume it’s fine just by looking at it. At altitude, small problems become big ones.
A Simple Fix for Frozen Threads
Even when the threads are good, cold plastic tends to bind. Opening and closing the lid can become frustratingly difficult.
My workaround is stick sunscreen, not liquid. The solid kind. Apply a small amount to the clean threads. No contamination. The difference is immediate. The lid engages smoothly and opens easily, even in the cold. Plastic grips itself when frozen, and this adds just enough lubrication to solve the problem.
Storage and Everyday Use
The CMC doubles as a camp stool, though it’s not exactly pleasant.
Always keep it shaded. If it’s sunny, bury it in the snow. Heat increases odor and turns the contents more liquid. Remember, it’s holding waste and toilet paper.
Wet wipes do not go in the can. They must be packed out separately in a sealed bag. It’s unpleasant, but it’s required.
After each use, tamp the can firmly to compress the contents. Done correctly, you can fit around ten deposits. I’ve managed more when necessary.
High Camp Is Mandatory
You must bring the CMC to high camp. That’s where the official drop point is located.
Make sure your backpack has proper attachment points before you leave. Study the strap system and plan how you’ll secure it. Don’t wait until you’re already there trying to improvise.
Dropping a CMC on the Headwall means going back for it. Arriving at high camp without one means being turned around. The Park Service enforces this strictly.
Hygiene Matters More Than You Think
Avoid large tear-out packs of wet wipes. They freeze solid. Separate them ahead of time and keep them warm before use.
Bring at least two full rolls of toilet paper. This is not the place to cut corners.
Hand sanitizer kills bacteria, but it doesn’t remove contamination. On Denali, getting waste on your hands is nearly unavoidable.
My solution is nitrile gloves. They allow you to clearly see contamination and clean thoroughly. This reduces the risk of gastrointestinal illness, which can end a climb fast.
I plan for two wet wipes per day on the mountain. On a 30-day trip, that’s 60 individually packaged wipes.
That’s how I handle one of the least discussed realities of climbing Denali.
Links are in the comments and description if you want more details.
—
Aaron R. Linsdau is a keynote speaker and polar explorer. Book Aaron for your next event or learn more at https://www.aaronlinsdau.com
Read his thriller books at https://www.aaronrlinsdau.com